Los angeles county fair judging : wine tasters conduct an ongoing search for the california chardonnay

<i> Chroman is a free-lance wine writer and author who also practices law in Beverly Hills</i> Chardonnay still reigns as California’s most popular wine as evidenced by more than

250 entries at the 47th annual Los Angeles County Fair Wine Judging. The Chardonnay panel chairman Peter Sichel of New York and Blue Nun fame said, “We needed every bit of four full days

starting at 7:30 a.m. to sift through a host of varying styles coming from every vineyard region in the state.” “Apparently there is no style consistency evolved yet for California

Chardonnays,” he added. “There still seems to be an ongoing search. Some wines had botrytis, a bit of ‘noble rot’ which made them difficult to judge. Stylistically what was beneficial were

the many wines showing a restrained, subdued fruit taste making for easier access and in general better wine. Also fewer wines now are over-oaked as apparently seasoned wine makers are

handling it better.” As a class, Sichel and his co-panelists of Robert Lawrence Balzer, Dr. Stanley Burton, Coleman Andrews and Patricia Herron preferred non-barrel-fermented Chardonnays to

the barrel-fermented type, a style that makes for a buttery texture and a luscious, less crisp taste. Gold Medal winners in the non-barrel-fermented category are Monticello Cellars,

Jefferson Ranch, 1984; P.M. Staiger, Santa Cruz Mountains, 1984, and Cosentino, the Sculptor, 1985. Best of Class Honors Cosentino, a small 11-acre vineyard in Yountville, Napa Valley, with

a winery under construction, was also given best of class honors. It is unusual for a Chardonnay to triumph when it is less than 1 year old, but that seems to be the case these days as there

were many others from the same fine vintage. Vintners seem to be able to produce finer bottles from recent harvests. Tasteworthy, too, are the many lesser medal winners, which are high in

quality. It is not unusual for these wines to develop well during the next several years and perhaps on a different judgment day render a gold medal performance. Silver medalists are

Ventana, Gold Striped Selection, 1985; Gundlach Bundschu, Sonoma Valley, 1984; Bryon, Central Coast, 1985; Christian Brothers, Napa Valley, 1984; Hart, Temecula, 1984; Llords and Elwood,

rare Chardonnay, 1984; Parducci, Mendocino, 1985; Windsor, River Estates, Sonoma, 1984; Bargetto, Cypress, 1985, and Artisan, Ultravino, Napa Valley, 1984. Bronze Medalists are Beringer,

Napa Valley Estate, 1983; Flora Springs, Napa Valley, 1984; Gainey Vineyard, 1984; Joanna Cellars, Monterey, 1984; Trefethen, Napa Valley, 1983; Val Fleur, Alexander Valley, 1983, and San

Antonio, Maddalena, Napa Valley, 1984. There were two best of class honorees of the many winners in the barrel-fermented class, both from the Central Coast region, Castoro Cellars, 1984, a

small new winery from Atascadero and Santa Ynez, 1983. More Gold Medalists Other gold medalists are Clos du Bois, Calcaire, 1984, Congress Springs, Napa Valley, 1985, and Stearns Wharf,

1985. Silver medalists are Beringer, Napa Valley, 1984; Flora Springs, Napa Valley, 1984; Kenwood, Beltane Ranch, 1984; La Crema, 1984; Landmark Vineyards, Alexander Valley, 1984; Lytton

Springs, Sonoma, 1984; Mark West, Sonoma, 1983; Milano, Mendocino, 1983; Mount Palomar, Temecula, 1984; Silverado, Napa Valley, 1984; Simi, Sonoma, 1983, and Warner West, 1985. There were an

unusually high number of bronze medal winners to round out a fine Chardonnay class. Bronze medalists are Bouchaine, Los Carneros, 1984; Bandiera, Sonoma, 1984; Adelaida Cellars, Paso

Robles, 1984; Boyer, Ventana Vineyards, 1985; Chalk Hill, Sonoma, 1984; Grgich, Napa, 1984; Fritz, Dry Creek Valley, 1983; Fulton Valley, 1985; Robert Keenan, Napa, 1984; Husch, Mendocino,

1984; McDowell, Valley, 1984; Morgan-St. Vrain, Monterey, 1985; Rolling Hills, Santa Maria, 1984; Perret, Carneros, 1984; Pat Paulsen, Sonoma, 1984; San Martin, 1985; Santa Barbara,

Chardonnay Reserve, 1985, and Charles Shaw, Napa Valley, 1984. In the inexpensive-but-good, large-volume Special Division, in which no medals are awarded, First Award Rosettes were awarded

to La Belle-Paradise Cellars, 1984, and Napa Ridge, 1984, followed by a Second Award to Kendall-Jackson, North Star, 1985, and a Third Award to Clos du Val, Gran Val, 1985. Also in the same

division but in the _ negociant _ class wines made for the label and account of wine merchants, a Second Award for Chardonnay, non-barrel fermented, was given to Stone Creek, Sonoma, 1984.

In the ever increasingly popular Zinfandel Blanc class, where wines are likely to be dry or slightly sweet, Gold Medals were awarded to Bargetto, White Zinfandel, 1985; Cribari, White

Zinfandel, 1985, and D’Agostini, Amador White Zinfandel, 1985. Silver medalists are Britton Cellars, Zinfandel Perl, 1985; Buehler, White Zinfandel, 1985; Tyland, White Zinfandel, 1985, and

Weibel, White Zinfandel, 1985. Bronze medalists are Beringer, North Coast, White Zinfandel, 1985; DeLoach, Russian River, White Zinfandel, 1985; Fortino, Zinfandel Blanc, 1984, and Galleano,

White Zinfandel, 1985. Much in Demand Drier-styled whites made from red wine grapes continue to be much in consumer demand. Frequently I find it difficult, if not impossible, to perceive

much difference in the flavors of a wine labeled Blanc de Noir or Cabernet Sauvignon Blanc. The goal here is to make a satisfying, crisp white wine from grapes that would be otherwise

earmarked for either Pinot Noir or Cabernet. Apparently these wines are no longer just a fad but are beginning to attract legions of consumers who would otherwise buy Chardonnay or Sauvignon

Blanc. Generally they are less expensive, sometimes as much as $5 to $10 less, than California’s other major varietals. With 31 entries, the Blanc de Noir class was won by gold medalists

Buena Vista, Steelhead, Blanc de Pinot Noir, 1985, and San Antonio, Barbera Blanc, 1984. Silver medalists are Fritz, Pinot Noir Blanc, 1985; Olson Vineyards, Napa Gamay Blanc, 1985; St.

Francis, White Pinot Noir, 1985, and Whitehall Lane, Blanc de Pinot Noir, 1985. Ballard Canyon, Whitecab, 1985, and San Antonio, Maddalena, Cabernet Blanc, 1985, were awarded Gold Medals in

the Cabernet Sauvignon Blanc category. Silver Medals went to Boeger, White Cabernet, 1985, and Lost Hills, Cabernet Sauvignon Blanc, Monterey, 1985. Pinot Blanc, a class which often shows a

Chardonnay-style character, is a good white wine bet. There were fewer entries this year as Pinot Blanc has become an essential ingredient in many California dry sparkling wines. Gold Medals

were awarded to Buehler, 1985, and J. Lohr, Monterey Blanc, 1984. Silver medalists are Glen Ellen, Sonoma, 1985, and Roudon-Smith, Santa Maria, 1984. The largest single white wine class,

with 154 entries, was Sauvignon Blanc, dry, also known as Fume Blanc. These wines will be less expensive than Chardonnays and many will be made with the same care and attention, including

costly partial barrel fermentation and/or barrel aging. Gainey Vineyard, 1984, received Best of Class honors. Gold medalists were Dry Creek, Sonoma County, Fume Blanc 1985; Corbett Canyon,

1984; Matanzas Creek, Sonoma County, 1984; Obester, Mendocino, 1985, and Gary Farrell, Russian River, 1985. Silver Medalists Listed Silver medalists are Britton, 1984; Girard, North Coast,

1984; Kenwood, Sonoma, 1985; Llords and Elwood, 1984; Fetzer, Fume Blanc, Valley Oaks, 1985; J.W. Morris, Alexander Valley, 1985; J. Rochioli, Russian River, 1985; Sanford, 1985, and

Windsor, Fume Blanc, Sonoma, 1985. Gold medalists for Chenin Blanc dry are Folie-A-Deux, 1985; French Valley, 1985; Girard, Napa, 1985; Kenwood, 1985, and Lower Lake, 1985. Other gold

medalists include Alderbrook, 1985, in the Semillon class, and Sebastiani, 1985, and Parducci, 1985, for Gewurztraminer. Gold medalists in the miscellaneous dry white table wine category are

Glen Ellen, Proporietors Reserve (white table) 1985, and McDowell, White Table Wine, 1985. The winner in the miscellaneous category for a non-alcoholic wine is J. Lohr, Ariel, Non-Vintage.

French Colombard gold medalist is Franzia, 1985. For a complete booklet and list of all the winners, send $3 to the Wine Department, Los Angeles County Fair Assn., P.O. Box 2250, Pomona

91769. FOR THE RECORD: Maison Deutz winery, featured in this column in the Sept. 18 Food Section, is located in San Luis Obispo County, not Santa Barbara County. MORE TO READ